there’s a lot of life reflection that occurs when i’m surfing.
i love being surrounded by water, and it seems to be when i’m in contact with water that i think the clearest. when i’m at my happiest.
i went out yesterday for a much needed surf and as i was out the back, waiting for the waves to come through, there was a lot of hustling amongst the surfers. there weren’t that many rideable waves, and there were a lot of surfers huddled in the same area. it was getting pretty crowded for a work day!
“he’s getting all the waves”, a female surfer whispered as i said good morning to her. “i’m trying to follow him so i can catch all the waves too”, she added.
i know exactly what she means – in fact, i typically think that in my head. but that’s when my joy is destroyed. you see, surfers all have different boards so different waves suit each board. we can never be in exactly the same position in the sea, in the exact same position where they wave comes, and besides, we all have different surf abilities.
it would have been so easy to be annoyed at that point of time, but that would have just stolen the fun, the pleasure i feel when being in the ocean. and it had been a long time since i was out surfing, and i was determined to enjoy this precious time.
“he must be in a good spot then”, i replied… and then consciously paddled so i was out of hearing range from her.
i realised that comparison steals the joy out of living your own life. it robs you out of living fully in that present moment.
live your own life, cos’ everyone else’s life is taken!